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 Post subject: Re: cilinder block T35-37
PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 12:10 am
Posts: 334
Don't know what you mean by the wall - do you mean the water jacket?


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 Post subject: Re: cilinder block T35-37
PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 8:36 pm 
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Last edited by Marek on Tue Jul 22, 2014 6:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: cilinder block T35-37
PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 9:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2008 5:07 pm
Posts: 1018
Location: Vienne France
Greg Morgan wrote:
Don't know what you mean by the wall - do you mean the water jacket?

What will become a void for water,starts out as a "wall of sand" being the thickness of the water passage.I dont know how to make it simpler.


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 Post subject: Re: cilinder block T35-37
PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 11:56 pm 
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Location: Baden-Baden Germany
rapid prototyping is a affordable way to get a high prezision mold for sand casting . For sure , there are better ways to cast a Bugatti cylinder block . But who is willing to pay for ? One of you guys ? :wink:
The best way today is to have a ceramic mold ,heated up to about 1000 celsius and pure the hot metal in the hot mold .I for example make my con rods this way .It would be the best Bugatti cylinder block ever made , and the most expensive one . But as long nobody is willing to pay for this quality you have to live with the cheap production line .


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 Post subject: Re: cilinder block T35-37
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:25 pm 
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What will become a void for water,starts out as a "wall of sand" being the thickness of the water passage.I dont know how to make it simpler.

As I said - the water jacket. For sure it makes things easier if the sides of the cylinder block are open enabling an extra print either side to lock in the sand core, as in the manner of the 41, 46, 50, 57 etc, but you still have a reasonable location for the core if it is given a large enough print on the open top face of the block. If there was demand I would happily make them, but it seems there are enough people doing them allready.


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 Post subject: Re: cilinder block T35-37
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:56 pm 
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Location: Vienne France
Greg Morgan wrote:
What will become a void for water,starts out as a "wall of sand" being the thickness of the water passage.I dont know how to make it simpler.

As I said - the water jacket. For sure it makes things easier if the sides of the cylinder block are open enabling an extra print either side to lock in the sand core, as in the manner of the 41, 46, 50, 57 etc, but you still have a reasonable location for the core if it is given a large enough print on the open top face of the block. If there was demand I would happily make them, but it seems there are enough people doing them allready.

These T35/37 type blocks were cast upside down.Head downwards as it were.There is no location at all for the top [bottom] of the sand.Strength therefore depends on the sand between the ports each side.Obviously the print needs to connect all these points and be rigid.


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 Post subject: Re: cilinder block T35-37
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 2:42 pm 
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It would be nearly impossible not to cast it upside down. If the side cheeks sat on top of the cod that makes up the upper water gallery/ ports and ths is wired into the lower water gallery then it is unable to float. allmost makes me want to make a GP block pattern just as an exercise... :idea:


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 Post subject: Re: cilinder block T35-37
PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 11:40 am 
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Last edited by Marek on Tue Jul 22, 2014 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: cilinder block T35-37
PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 11:47 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 5:47 pm
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